Many first-time pet owners have misconceptions about why professional dog trainers recommend crate training for puppies and new dogs. Crates may look like scary cages to humans, but to dogs, they look like safe and snuggly places to retreat to when the rest of the world has you worn out.
Crates are a place a dog can go to get some alone time. Crates are also a tool to use when training your dog, and they’re a way to give your dog a place to call their own within your home.
There are also functional applications like using a crate for transportation and locking the dog in at night, so they stay out of trouble (and allow you some sleep). Not to mention, this also portrays that you can give your dog definitive structure and boundaries to follow.
Some people will misuse the crate, and in turn, the dog may view the crate as a confining place that is not comfortable for them to stay in. We’re not recommending anything like that here, and our goal is to show you how to use the crate the right way and use it to improve your relationship and ability to train your new puppy.
The benefits of crate training your dog are numerous. They seriously make life so much easier! Especially if you are house training a puppy.
Puppies are similar to babies, and they are just learning everything for the first time. Crates help young dogs establish boundaries around where it’s ok to do their business and where they need to hold it in. Dogs, as a rule, do not like to go in the same area that they sleep.
The crate is meant to be a safe environment for your dog. If your home isn’t effectively puppy-proof, your dog can get into all sorts of trouble. If you have food or some not-so-dog-friendly items out around your home, the crate is where you can ensure your dog is safe and out of harm’s way, particularly if they are not being monitored closely. Your crate is where you want your dog to be when you have lots of guests coming in and out of the house, and the doors are left open, workers working in and around your home, or you just need them out of the way so you can do some much-needed vacuuming.
Crate training helps establish good discipline in your dog, translating into the rest of their training routines like potty training and general obedience. Crates help demarcate what’s uniquely your dog’s domain as opposed to the rest of the house. This territorial separation can prevent them from engaging in destructive habits like chewing on furniture or other areas of your home like doors or baseboards.
A cozy crate helps your dog relax and let go of pent up stress and anxiety. Never use them as a form of punishment because we want our pets to have positive associations with time spent in their crates. Dog’s who learn to be comfortable alone in their crates are much less likely to experience separation anxiety when you need to leave them alone for a time.
If a dog and their crate are friends, it will be that much easier to get them to hop into it when you’re taking them to the vet or on a trip outside the home. If your dog’s not familiar with staying inside their crate already, they’ll be more likely to resist staying confined when you’re taking them on a long road trip or an airplane.
Crates come in a few different styles; each has pros and cons.
There are collapsible crates that are great for transporting and fit easily into the car. They’re great for when you take trips to see family and friends and want to bring your doggo along.
There are also plastic airline crates, which, as the name suggests, are allowed on planes. These are necessary if you are flying-with-fido. They can also work for non-aerial usages, but then it becomes more a matter of personal preference.
Yes, some people do have multiple crates, even though they only have one dog. Larger breeds may outgrow their puppy crate and need a larger one as an adult, so unless owners give them away to others in need, they may have a stockpile going. Some crates do come with a divider panel that can be adjusted as a dog grows.
A good rule of thumb is that a crate should only be larger enough that a dog can comfortably turn around inside of it, stand up, and lie down.
There are a few conflicting opinions on the “right” place to keep your dog’s crate. The crate is meant to be a quiet retreat for your dog and used for sleeping; some believe it should be out of the way of the household activity, which means not in a social room like a kitchen or living room, but rather in a bedroom or unused space.
The other school of thought is to keep the crate closer to the “hub” of the house and allow your dogs to have some social interaction even while they are in their own space.
You can’t please everyone here, except those who recommend you have two crates for your dog! In this scenario, you’d own one crate that’s used strictly for sleeping and another for during the day. Not everyone has the budget to buy a second crate or the space to have another one out, so you’re going to have to feel out what might be the best solution for your pup.
Not all dogs form an immediate bond with their crates. Sometimes it takes several weeks to get used to it. Remember, your dog is going through a big adjustment period during the first days and weeks they’re in your home.
It’s ok to take this process slowly and take a step back if your dog becomes anxious or afraid. In general, from a dog’s first introduction to a crate to feeling complete comfort and familiarity, the process can take up to a month. Some dogs will immediately form an attachment to their crates, and others will be more hesitant at first.
When you feel your dog is ready, introduce them to the crate in an environment, they spend the bulk of their time. If you’re planning for them to sleep in a separate area, it’s ok to move the crate later. You don’t want your dog to associate the crate with isolation or being a punishment.
Make sure you have their daily rations available to you because you’ll need them as an incentive to explore inside the crate. Begin interacting with your dog in a gentle and friendly manner, don’t get them over-excited. You want your pup to remain calm during this process. Throw a few pieces of food near the crate, but not inside. Observe their reaction; if they go for the food, that’s great!
Praise them with a few pets. Next, toss some of their food into the crate, but not too deep inside. Just inside the crate door is fine. Make sure the door won’t accidentally bang closed if bumped. You want your dog to feel comfortable stepping in and out of the crate before we acclimate them to being in a closed crate.
If your dog shows signs of stress or apprehension at any point, stop progressing the training and wait until they become calm again. Then you can resume where you left off. Don’t force them to become comfortable all in one go. Be ok with stopping the session for the day.
As your dog shows positive signs stepping inside the crate, take the process a step further by closing the door for short periods.
This can be as short as 1-2 seconds. You also don’t need to lock the crate to do this. Just press it shut. Gradually increase the amount of time you keep the door closed while your dog is inside.
If your dog begins to whine or paw at the door, perhaps you need to decrease the time on the next go. But don’t open the door until they’ve stopped whining and pawing. You don’t want to reinforce those behaviors as effective for getting their crate back open. Wait until they stop, relax, and praise them as you open the door.
The next step in the process is to acclimate your dog to spending long periods in the crate without you in their presence. Follow the same process and close the door, but this time you can start locking it. Gradually increase your distance from the crate within the same room and maintain that distance for more extended amounts of time.
If your dog is responding positively, you can experiment with briefly leaving the room while they remain in the crate.
Be sure to follow the same guidelines as to when you started, be ready to reward your dog with their favorite treats or toys, and to put a pause on the process if they show signs of distress.
In time your dog should be comfortable in their crate for extended periods without you in the room. This is when you can begin crating them overnight and when you’re gone during the day.
A common pitfall here is falling into a routine before leaving for the day that your dog “figures out” and preemptively reacts to.
An example would be if you always grab your keys and put on your jacket before crating them and heading out the door. Your dog may realize that these are warning signs that you’re leaving for a while, and they’ll be stuck in the crate without you. We recommend that you vary the steps in your morning route to counteract a noticeable pattern forming. Crate them early in your routine, in the end, and the middle on different days, so they don’t hone in on any one cue.
Another good training technique is to get your dog’s mind onto something else as you’re leaving, so they don’t even realize you’re gone. Toys that you can conceal treats in, like Kong toys, are great for this as your dog has to work hard to get a nibble. This keeps them busy so you can slip out the door without a fuss.
By not making a big deal on your departures or returns, your dog doesn’t associate you leaving as a reason to get upset or anxious.
Too Much Time In The Crate
Make sure you’re not leaving your dog in their crate for too long! Puppies should only spend a maximum of 4 hours at a time in a crate during the day. Overnight is ok assuming they are sleeping soundly. Dog’s need exercise and freedom to live healthy lives. If a dog is spending too much time in their crate, they can develop anxiety and other behavior problems like aggression.
If you find yourself needing to be away for long periods, hire a neighbor, professional dog walker, or enroll your dog in doggie daycare.
Excessive Whining
It’s common for dogs to whine a little bit while in their crates. Sometimes it’s a sign that they need a potty break, but if you’re walking them regularly and “know their rhythm” they may just be whining for attention. In the case of puppies, try to walk them before bed and let them relieve themselves. They may still wake you up in the middle of the night, and it’s a good practice to pre-emptively walk them until they grow older and can control their bladders more.
If you’ve eliminated bathroom-related reasons for their vocalizing, ignoring them is usually the best answer. You don’t want to give in to their behavior here because it lets them know that they will eventually get their way if they whine enough. This is also why we believe it’s important for your crate to be in a good and quiet space away from the activity in the house. When you do let your pup out, wait until they’re calm and making eye contact with you.
How’s crate training going for you and your puppy? Please contact us by writing a message into the bubble, and we’ll get back to you. If you want to schedule a training evaluation for your dog, drop us a line.
A temperament test is a series of assessments that evaluate a dog’s behavior in different situations and their reactions to various stimuli. They then are assigned a temperament profile. Most tests take their scores and turn them into profiles like easy-going, independent, fearful, or aggressive. Other tests like the Volhard Puppy Aptitude Test rank dogs with a numerical value 1-6.
This temperament testing process helps dog care professionals understand the animals in their care and works to ensure they’re adopted by an owner that’s well suited to their behavioral type.
As a new-adopter, you should know any potential adoptee’s temperament before you finalize your paperwork.
A dog’s health and personality are much more important than their sex, breed, or size when determining if you can provide them with the right home.
Most shelters will perform temperament tests on their dogs shortly after arrival. This is to keep all their files on dogs organized and identify which dogs pose the highest bite risk.
Another purpose of temperament testing is to reveal the true personality of dogs who are currently experiencing stress or depression due to the recent changes they’ve experienced as they came into the shelter environment. Moving and being separated from former owners is hard on dogs as it is on humans.
Keep reading to learn more about the four main temperaments found in dogs and what they mean for you as a potential pet owner.
Easy-going/Happy
Most dogs, fortunately, fall into this personality type, and easy-going dogs are considered the lowest bite risk and the safest to adopt. They are easy to get along with and generally friendly. They are more social with the family than dogs with independent temperaments and are more likely to be comfortable in new environments and around new stimuli and stressors. A dog with this temperament will not be expected to have many issues that an introductory balanced training class could not resolve.
This profile corresponds to “3’s” and “4’s” on the Volhard test. Dogs with more “3” scores than “4” score are usually higher-energy dogs that will need ample exercise.
Independent
Independent dogs are typically quieter than their easy-going counterparts. They are content with being on their own for large portions of the day. Dogs with this personality are typically disinterested in directly interacting with humans or other dogs. If your dog will be around the house most of the day and not expected to be cuddled by anyone, then an independent dog may be right for you. Many senior dogs in shelters can fall into this category.
Independent dogs typically earn 6’s on the Volhard test.
Fearful
A dog with a fearful temperament may not exhibit anxiety all the time. But these dogs do show some fearful or nervous behavior under certain circumstances or when they become triggered. They may even show fear-based aggression. Shelter staff know to be on the lookout for these types of dogs, but there’s still a large chance that fear aggression can get overlooked or misdiagnosed. If a dog is more withdrawn, skittish, guarding resources by snapping or growling, or presents tense body language when approached, these are likely signs of fear-aggression. This dog has a higher potential for biting and may be taken off the adoption list in some shelters. If you find a fearful dog, be prepared to invest in additional behavioral training, have patience, and be in for a long haul approach to caring for this dog. Don’t adopt a fearful dog if you are not truly ready to handle the commitment.
Many balanced trainers enjoy working with fear-aggressive dogs because they can have some of the most remarkable transformations. A fear-aggressive dog isn’t necessarily a dog you want to overlook, but preferably one that you must accept that you will need to invest time and money looking for a professional balanced trainer. Some of our favorite dogs that have been through our Board & Train program originally struggled with fear-aggression.
This puppy likely would score several 2’s and 3’s on the Volhard test and may prove too challenging to work with for newbie dog owners.
Aggressive
Some temperament tests label this behavior type as dominant or over-confident, but it’s the same overall profile. Aggressive dogs feel the need to defend their territory and attack other humans and animals. They may also resist being touched or refuse to follow basic commands. Shelters usually ID these dogs quickly, so if you’re working with a responsible shelter, it’s unlikely you will find them in the general adoption population. For the average family, aggressive dogs are not going to make good pets. They require a knowledgeable and dedicated owner that is willing to seek out training and to give them a chance at having a quality life outside of a shelter facility.
Aggressive dogs score 1’s on the Volhard exam and show a strong desire to act dominantly. They are best left to highly experienced trainers to adopt.
These are the basics of the four major temperaments that are tested for. Every dog is unique, and any particular dog may not fall neatly into one of these categories.
A good temperament test should be able to measure a dog’s reaction to situations they’re likely to encounter while in a typical home environment.
It should test things like:
It’s certainly possible that even a good temperament test can get it wrong on a particular dog or that a well-adjusted dog might rate poorly on aspects of a test on a given day. What happens in these cases depends on that specific shelter or rescue organization’s policies and the testing criteria they use.
One key area that shelters don’t test for is a dog’s reaction to children. A dog with a negative reaction would pose a risk to any child involved, so the other aspects of a temperament test will have to suffice as an indicator.
Other Issues With Temperament Tests To Be Aware Of
One of the issues shelters run into with temperament tests is that they’re not using the same criteria across the board. Each shelter uses the criteria they think works best. If tests are not administered consistently within a shelter, then it’s hard to trust their assessments.
Another problem is the challenge presented by the shelter environment. Most dogs are dealing with some degree of stress while in a shelter, and they might react to testing entirely differently than they would then in a home.
Despite these issues, the wide use of temperament tests is a positive thing. They work to find aggression and other behavioral issues that a dog may have and prepare their next family to anticipate and address those behaviors. This reduces the potential for a bad homing experience for both dog and owner.
Not all shelters know how to provide temperament testing forto all of their dogs, and if you’re interested in volunteering with your local shelter, this might be an area that you can help out.
The more information you can gather about a dog you’re interested in, the better an adoption decision you can make. Even if your shelter or breeder has conducted temperament testing, you should ask if you can spend time with the dog in different environments to judge how they react.
Ask if you can take the dog home for an evaluation. Some shelters will ask you to sign some paperwork and put down a deposit before they allow you to take a dog home.
Not every shelter will agree to this, but if your home is already prepared with doggie-basics for a short-term stay, this can be a massive benefit to you. It will give you the chance to see how a dog’s personality changes in this new environment and allows you to present them with different stimuli.
Ask if you can spend time together in a meet and greet room at the shelter or on a walk. Observe the dog throughout the process. If they become nervous or resistant when you come close, that’s a warning sign of a fearful temperament.
Ask the shelter what information they have about the dog’s past home environment for any clues to how they might behave down the line.
If you are going to conduct your temperament test, formally or informally, here’s what to look for with each personality type. Compare your findings with what the shelter is telling you, and if anything feels off, ask questions until you are satisfied with the answers.
Quick note, for most of the criteria on any temperament test, an aggressive dog will respond poorly and dangerously. It’s unlikely you’ll find yourself in a situation with an aggressive dog due to the screening shelters do upon intake, but just in case a dog you’re interested in has some aggressive tendencies we’ve included their responses. They’re also a useful comparison to draw to the other major profiles.
If you are allowed to have some alone time with the dog (still supervised, of course), you will observe how they react when given a chance to focus on you.
Allow them time to get comfortable in the room before trying to engage them.
Happy/Easy-Going Dogs
A happy or easy-going dog will come right over to sniff you and or act excitedly in your presence, wagging their tail and looking to be pet.
Independent Dogs
Independent dogs will maintain a distance and may not appear too interested in you at all. They may decide to come to say hello, but they will act aloof to your presence.
Fearful Dogs
Fearful dogs will be hesitant to greet you and may actively avoid you. They may cower in a corner and hold their tail down between their legs.
Aggressive Dogs
This dog would enter the room barking and lunging forward, possibly barring their teeth. It’s unlikely this will be the case since aggressive dogs typically are removed from general shelter populations. However, in this scenario, you will want to stop the visit immediately and speak to the shelter staff about the dog’s behavior.
Test the dog’s response to noises, including your voice. Speak to them in different tones from high-pitched baby talk to normal speaking to a louder than normal voice. Drop your keys on the floor to test their response to a sudden loud sound.
Happy/Easy-Going Dogs
These dogs will not be startled by your voice, and they enjoy being spoken to. They will likely draw closer to see what you are trying to communicate. They may be surprised by you dropping your keys, but they will quickly realize there’s no danger and go to sniff them.
Independent Dogs
Independent dogs will listen to you when you speak but may then choose to go back to what they’re doing. They won’t be bothered by loud noises.
Fearful Dogs
Fearful or nervous dogs will be most interested in your high-pitched voice but won’t approach you. They will likely be afraid of your loud voice and will back away when you drop your keys.
Aggressive Dogs
An aggressive dog will attempt to lunge toward you or bark at you. Aggressive dogs will likely get upset when you drop your keys and may bark at them.
If you believe it safe to do so, cautiously touch the dog in an area, they’re most receptive. Make sure to move slowly and not to startle them. Begin by turning to your side and not addressing the dog directly, allow them to sniff you, and offer them a treat. Slowly begin to pet behind their ears or on their back.
Be sure to respect the dog's boundaries if they show any form of fear, nervousness, or aggression. If you are looking at getting a dog from a shelter, it is unlikely that the rescue will allow these kinds of dogs to interact with anybody until they have a bit more control over their behavior.
Happy/Easy-Going Dogs
A happy or easy-going dog will enjoy the attention and physical touch! They will wag their tail excitedly and be eager for more.
Independent Dogs
An independent dog might engage with you and allow themselves to be pet, but probably not for too long. It might feel like you’re getting more out of the situation than they are! They might decide that petting time is over and go back to their own business.
Fearful Dogs
Fearful dogs may be resistant to being touched and will avoid eye contact with you. Their tails will remain down and between their legs.
Aggressive Dogs
If a dog you’re interacting with has shown any signs of aggression, it’s not a good idea to attempt to touch them. You shouldn’t continue the test with this dog as they will not be a good fit for adopting.
The next test is to attempt to play with the dog by throwing a toy.
Happy/Easy-Going Dogs
Don’t be surprised that a happy/easy-going dog will be delighted to play with you.
Independent Dogs
Independent dogs often enjoy playing on their own, and if you throw a toy, they might not bring it back to you. It’s possible they won’t show much interest in the toy at all.
Fearful Dogs
Some fearful dogs won’t be interested in playing with you. Others will show interest after spending enough time with them. This depends on the degree of their fears and what triggers them.
Aggressive Dogs
Don’t attempt to play with an aggressive dog.
If your shelter allows, take the dog for a short walk. Observe them as you move to put on the leash. While walking together, try to pass by other people, cars, bicyclists, and other animals to imitate the typical walk you would go on around your home.
If your dog is pulling on the leash, this isn’t necessarily an indicator of temperament but could be overall inadequate leash training, so don’t worry about it too much.
Keep in mind, many of these behaviors can be easily and quickly addressed within a training program. It’s not that these dogs are “bad”; they do not understand what they are doing or what we want them to be doing. That is why training is all about communication; developing an understanding of expectations - and leash training is no different.
Happy/Easy-Going Dogs
Easy-going dogs are excited by walks and exploring new environments. They may pull on the leash when they see a person, pet, or other things that excite them. They will happily greet others and remain enthusiastic.
Independent Dogs
Independent dogs will typically not cause a fuss when you’re putting on a leash, but they won’t be overly excited for a walk. They will most likely not be too interested in other people, pets, or cars in the environment. They may not enjoy being petted by strangers either.
Fearful Dogs
Fearful dogs will avoid the leash, and they may move away from you and cower in fear. Be careful when attaching the leash, as this could trigger an aggressive response, including a snap or bite. Move slowly, and if they show signs of anxiety, don’t proceed further without talking to a shelter staff member. While walking with a fearful dog, they may become easily triggered by stimuli in the outside world. Use caution and consider bringing a shelter staff member with you.
Aggressive Dogs
Don’t attempt to take an aggressive dog for a walk.
If it’s possible, ask if you may observe the dog you’re interested in with a second dog to see how they get along with others. This is important if you already have pets at home or have friends or family who bring pets over occasionally. If you have a cat, ask if it would be possible to observe the dog with one as well.
Happy/Easy-Going Dogs
Happy/easy-going dogs will try to play with other animals in most cases.
Independent Dogs
Independent dogs will sometimes play with others, but they mostly prefer to be on their own.
Fearful Dogs
Fearful dogs may actively hide when around other animals. They may also become self-protective and bark as a warning.
Aggressive Dogs
Aggressive dogs will likely bark excessively and perhaps even charge at other dogs. A responsible shelter would not allow an aggressive dog to play with others.
Use this guide as a jumping-off point when speaking with the staff at a shelter or rescue organization. Ask them about what temperament testing they conduct and what documentation they have available. See if you can run your own informal evaluation on any dogs you’re interested in.
If you have any additional questions about temperament tests, please message us in the bubble below or sign up for a training evaluation.
What To Do When Your Puppies Have Littermate Syndrome
What Is It, How To Address It, And Why It’s Not The End Of The World.
There’s nothing quite like bringing a new puppy into your household - except maybe bringing in two puppies! That’s definitely a line you’ll hear from someone who’s trying to convince you to purchase a second dog.
On paper it seems like an excellent idea! After all it can be a scary transition for a pup to go from their mom and littermates to a new household with new sights, smells, and people too.
Having one of their siblings by their side can help them feel more comfortable during this big change, right?
These owners believe the dogs will be able to entertain one another while you and the family aren’t around.
You already have to purchase toys and water bowls and leashes, so it's not such a huge deal to double up on some of these items.
Unfortunately, we have to break it to you that while it sounds good in theory, adopting two puppies from the same litter can present some unique behavioral and training problems in your dogs as they grow.
These issues are known as Littermate Syndrome.
Littermate Syndrome is when the puppies have bonded so closely together it actually impedes their individual ability to learn about the nuances of human and canine interaction and grow into independent mature dogs.
As littermate syndrome dogs grow they don’t see the world properly and are unable to cope with new stimuli and stressful situations.
Many dog professionals from trainers to shelters and breeders are actively discouraging new pet owners from adopting siblings and some are refusing to place siblings in the same home for this very reason.
As described above, Littermate Syndrome (also known as littermate aggression or sibling syndrome) is when siblings from the same litter bond so closely that it makes bonding with their humans and other animals much harder.
When puppies have littermate syndrome they often become fearful around other humans and dogs. If you separate two sibling dogs with littermate syndrome they’ll grow anxious or even aggressive.
This is due to the hyper-attachment they’ve formed with each other.
Littermate syndrome makes training dogs so difficult because they don’t respond positively to anyone other than their sibling,
As a behavioral issue littermate syndrome can vary in severity.
There is no guarantee sibling dogs in the same household will exhibit signs of littermate syndrome, but there is definitely a risk if precautions aren’t taken.
If you do end up adopting multiple littermates, be on the lookout for any signs of it developing so you can address them immediately.
It’s one of the more serious behavioral issues and can affect both your dogs for their entire lifespan. If not managed, littermate syndrome can lead to needing to rehome one or both of your dogs so they can receive the proper care and attention.
The following behaviors are signs that your dogs may be developing littermate syndrome:
Codependency
Codependency is when dogs react to new stimuli or stresses by growing difficult or avoidant in their presence. Codependency in dogs is dangerous because if one of the siblings passes away the surviving dog is emotionally devastated and can’t properly cope.
Separation Anxiety
Separation anxiety can really affect your dog’s emotional state. On the more severe end it can prevent them from going anyway by themselves without having a breakdown.
Fear Of People & Dogs
Because dogs with littermate syndrome are codependent it prevents them from exploring the world and engaging with new situations and stimuli. When they begin to encounter new people and dogs it can trigger fear within them.
Poor Social Skills
Puppies with littermate syndrome spend so much time with each other they don’t learn how to interact with other dogs. They often communicate in their own language and it prevents them from becoming friends with other dogs.
Usually in these pairings one of the dogs is dominant and the other is submissive. When you put the dominant of the two in a group of other dogs at a dog park it can become a dangerous situation fast.
The sooner you can begin socializing your dogs to play nice with others the better.
Difficulty To Train
Training one puppy by itself can be challenging, training two with codependency is even harder. They already have short attention spans and having a sibling there can provide for an even bigger distraction.
Sibling Rivalry
Sibling rivalries among dogs with littermate syndrome isn’t common, but it does occur. When dogs are young the rivalry seems cute and harmless but as they get older it can become quite serious for both dogs. In these cases owners will have to separate the pair sometimes in different homes to protect the submissive sibling.
If your puppies are showing signs of littermate syndrome there’s a lot you can do to lessen its effects and improve their behavior over time with training techniques.
As soon as you bring your puppies home, you can begin taking preventative measures against littermate syndrome.
If your dogs are showing you any of the above behaviors, it’s likely they have developed littermate syndrome.
From here it’s not impossible to change their behaviors, but it is much easier to prevent codependency from forming even before it starts.
Here are some early warning signs that your dogs might be forming a hyper-attachment.
Remember, this is for dogs who are 3-6 months old.
Seeking comfort together when facing new people and dogs.
If they avoid situations with new people or dogs and stay within close contact with one another. This is an early warning sign of codependency.
Distress when separated.
If your dogs whimper, whine, pace around, and otherwise show signs of stress. This is indicative of separate anxiety forming.
Difficulty learning basic commands.
If they fail to learn basic commands like sit, down, and stay. The hyper-attachment formed by littermate syndrome dogs makes it hard to focus them during training sessions thus their ability to learn is impaired.
Fighting Between siblings
If the siblings fight frequently and begin to show signs of an imbalanced power dynamic. This can lead to aggressiveness as your dogs grow if the power dynamic isn’t corrected.
Overall anything that doesn’t seem like normal puppy development should set your littermate syndrome radar off.
If you have committed to raising siblings together, be prepared for the challenge.
Raising one puppy can be difficult enough, and raising a second at the same time isn’t just twice as difficult, it’s closer to ten times as difficult.
But if you are serious about it, and want to give both dogs the best chance possible at developing into mature independent dogs, then we will give you all the best techniques possible to ameliorate the effects of littermate syndrome.
The best thing you can do for your puppies is to separate them as much as possible throughout their daily routines.
This allows them to form attachments with other people and animals and decreases their reliance on one another.
If you allow them to spend too much time together a hyper-attachment may form.
Alone, they will have no choice but to become independent, and with your guidance, competent and then confident as they grow in their puppyhood.
The ultimate goal is for your dogs to be able to live together and have a great dynamic between each other as well as with you and your family. It’s only by separating them for the time being that we can later reunite them as healthy independent canines.
Breaking down your daily routines to accommodate two puppies separately is a significant challenge. It’s best if you can enlist family members, friends, and dog professions to assist you throughout the challenge.
Separate Walks
Start walking your dogs separately. You can begin by walking them together but with different handlers. This allows you and the other handler to experiment with walking further apart and heading in different directions briefly. Watch how they react at different distances. If they react with anxiety, begin a training plan to ease them moving in and out of sight with each other.
Over time this will acclimate your dogs into having independent experiences in the world without having the other to lean on.
Socialize Separately
Work on socializing each dog on their own. Take them on outings to dog parks and public places. Expose them to as many stimuli and types of people as possible. Get them used to cars, trucks, adults, children, dogs, cats, birds, bikes, and the area around your home. This goes a long way to creating an independent dog later in life.
Separate Crates
Stop crating your dogs together! Get a second crate asap and start creating separation between your dogs. You can start by leaving the crate next to one another in order to ease any separate anxiety they may be experiencing, but as they get used to the separate kennels you can begin moving them further apart.
Go slow and if they are experiencing too much anxiety, slow down your process. As they grow comfortable, progress to moving the crates to opposite sides of the same room and then to separate rooms in your home.
While they are crated separately in the same room they’ll still be able to see, hear, and smell one another but they won’t be able to be in physical contact. This will decrease the codependency they are forming and begin to allow them to act independent.
Separate Training Sessions
Separating them at training time is of crucial importance because your puppies have to learn to look to you for direction instead of the other sibling. You want each of your dogs to feel the strongest bond with you instead of one another. If you are bringing your dogs to obedience classes it’s best to enroll them in separate sessions.
Separate Feeding
Start feeding your dogs separately. This means separate dishes for food and water. As you continue to work on their anxiety levels, move the dishes into separate rooms.
Remaining Apart At Home
Keep your dogs separated when you are all at home going about your daily business. They should be comfortable spending hours apart self-entertaining. Try to make their alone time as enjoyable as possible. Give them a toy like a Kong with a treat inside to keep them active and busy for a while.
This will distract them from thoughts of their sibling while they work for a tasty reward.
Stick To Your Plan
We did warn you that dealing with Littermate Syndrome was no easy task and it’s serious enough that it needs to be addressed immediately. It’s not just a simple behavioral issue, it’s your dog’s social development on the line.
The longer you wait in dealing with littermate syndrome the harder it is to reduce the attachments they’ve developed and allow them to socialize normally.
Every week that goes by makes it that much harder so please don’t delay in forming your plan.
As your dog's progress through their training they will begin to establish their own independent personalities. You should see major changes in each dog’s behavior from the time you began addressing their littermate syndrome. They shouldn’t feel anxious engaging in daily activities alone and should be comfortable not seeing their sibling throughout the day.
It’s now time to reunite your dogs!
You can start doing activities with both siblings together again. Take them on walks together, playdates, to the dog park! Remember to reward them for their good behavior when playing nicely together. Life with your puppies will be a breeze compared to the gauntlet of raising them separately.
Successfully raising two sibling dogs is quite a task. Life is already stressful enough without having to carefully manage your pet’s lives. If you’ve taken on this challenge kudos to you, you’ve proven yourself to be an incredible caretaker of your dogs and you’ve likely learned a ton in the process.
If you’re considering adopting siblings and this blog has changed your mind, that’s perfectly okay too. Many breeders won’t even place siblings together because most owners aren’t experienced enough to avoid the pitfalls of raising siblings. If you really have your heart set on owning two dogs right now, then it may be best to just adopt one and wait six months until you adopt the second. This will allow you enough time to properly socialize your first dog and avoid the littermate training protocol.
However, if you are planning to move forward with siblings then we hope this article has given you a starting framework to conduct your training. We’re here to provide you with further professional assistance in creating a happy home for you and your dogs.
Alabama, the Yellowhammer State, is a fantastic area to visit, with many breathtakingly gorgeous cities, villages, and sights to see! Here is a selection of 15 stunning images of this magnificent state. Enjoy these top Alabama tourist attractions:
The Botanical Gardens in Huntsville provide visitors a tranquil setting in which to relax and unwind.
Visitors can stroll around the flower displays, forests, and wildflowers.
Make a point of visiting the Garden of Hope, which is devoted to cancer sufferers and their families.
Cheaha State Park is located in the counties of Cleburne and Clay.
The park is truly breathtaking and brimming with natural beauty.
Talladega National Forest, which boasts Alabama's highest peak, surrounds the park.
Chewacla Falls is located in Chewacla State Park and is a great place for a family outing.
The park's centerpiece is Chewacla Lake, which offers a variety of activities such as fishing, swimming, and boating.
Mobile, Alabama, is a lovely city in Mobile County. It is densely packed with art museums and other performing arts venues.
The city is well-known for hosting the country's oldest carnival.
Florence, Alabama, has a population of about 40,000 people and is located in the northwest region of the state.
This small town is well-known for the tourism events that it hosts each year. Every year, visitors rush to this town to enjoy the W.C Handy Music Festival.
Fort Payne Depot Museum is located in Fort Payne, Alabama.
Fort Payne was built in 1891, at a period of high mining activity in the town.
The structure is now a museum containing various Native American artifacts.
The edifice is a sight to behold, especially the round tower that rests in one of its corners.
The Gulf Shores of Alabama are a great area for relaxation, enjoyment, and adventure.
With white-sand beaches and breathtaking sunsets, you'll never want to leave.
The sand is composed of quartz grains that have been washed down from the Appalachian Mountains over thousands of years.
Lake Marin is a massive 44,000-acre lake. It has a shoreline that is over 750 kilometers long and is densely forested. The lake is a reservoir created by the construction of the Martin Dam.
People who wish to camp, water ski, or go boating flock to the area.
Shades Creek's historic mill was built in 1926. The mill had fallen into disrepair by the year 2,000.
Mike Franklin and John Parker erected a new wheel, which has transformed the facility into what it is now.
Perdido Bay is a coastal lagoon with barrier islands and an entrance located near the mouth of the Perdido River.
A barrier system used to restrict tidal flow can be found near the pass's entrance.
This bridge, which was erected as a Federal Aid Project in 1927, was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1988.
In 1989, the bridge was modified to support only one line of traffic, and in 1991, the bridge was closed to traffic and a new one was constructed alongside it.
Alpha Instincts Dog Training
(256)-482-6553
March 21st 2020, 2:00PM
Owners & Dogs are encouraged to wear GREEN!
Location: TBA
By migrating together in an extremely structured environment, you can teach your dog to follow you as a leader, using tools, body language and energy.
Your dog's behavior & social skills will improve by being around other dogs (in a pack) in a safe & structured environment.
This is not a meet & greet or dog park social experience!
Creating a safe environment (for humans & dogs) is our first priority. Our goal is to provide a positive experience for everyone!
Reactive dogs are welcome, but all dogs attending must be under control at all times.
All dogs in attendance are required to wear properly-fitted leashes and collars:
- 4-6 Foot leash (non-retractable)
- Prong collar and/or e-collar OR properly fitted slip lead
- Limit to one dog per handler
Dogs that have bitten other dogs or humans are not allowed to attend unless they have completed training with Alpha Instincts Dog Training, are muzzle-conditioned, and are on a properly-fitted prong and/or e-collar.
When it comes to potty training, while we do not directly address this in our program, we know all the tips & tricks to help you get started and help you avoid puppy pads completely!
1. Remove the Puppy Pads: If you are using these, they actually teach your dog that it is perfectly acceptable to go to the bathroom inside. By putting these pads on your floor for "potty needs", whenever they touch that similar flooring with their paws it creates an association in their brain that it is okay! This applies to how she feels about the kennel for the time being.
2. Potty Training Schedule: Your pup, at this age, needs to be taken out on a leash every 2-3 hours, around the clock for starters. As they get better, you can extend that to 3-4 hours. We do this on-leash because it shows the puppy there is a difference between "potty time" and "play-time", and they get less distracted.
3. Do not punish your puppy for accidents, they are still exploring the world and still learning. If you punish your dog, rub their nose in it, etc. they will just start to be sneakier or develop excitable or submissive peeing tendencies. If we keep an eye on them, accidents are less likely to happen because the body language they demonstrate is usually telling. If you notice a puppy starting to have an accident, pick up your puppy and take them immediately outside, and reward them heavily for finishing outside with food from their meal. Consistency is key!
4. Kenneling is absolutely necessary. A kennel should only be big enough for them to walk in, turn around, and lie down. Any extra room/space will give them the ability to create a "potty corner". Dogs should be kenneled whenever you are unable to pay attention to them, overnight, and whenever you're not home. This will help with accidents, as young dogs are no different than toddlers! If we do not watch them, they're bound to do something they are not supposed to! If kenneling isn't an option for you, you can attach a leash to your belt and keep a close eye on your puppy at all times!
Alpha Instincts Dog Training
(256)-482-6553
